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When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.